Learning to use a stud finder is key to keeping things on the wall. This is true for mirrors, TVs, or shelves.
When hanging big mirrors or heavy furniture, start with a 2×4 wall stud. Nailing into drywall is okay for light items. But for heavy stuff, wood studs are needed.
Don’t try to guess where the stud is. A wrong guess could make a kitchen shelf full of dishes fall. Stud finders are fast and accurate, unlike knocking on the wall.
For big projects, always double-check before you drill. Here’s how to use a stud finder for a worry-free wall-hanging project.
Tools & Materials
- Stud finder
- Tape measure
- Pencil
Before You Begin
First, know your stud finder type. Is it magnetic or density-reading? Magnetic ones find screws and nails but don’t show stud centers. For accurate work, use a density-reading finder to see stud edges.
Studs might have wires or pipes close by. Even if wires are on the stud’s side, check the area well. Be very careful near outlets or junction boxes to avoid hitting wires.
How to Use a Stud Finder
Knowing how to use a stud finder is key for homeowners. It’s a must-have tool for many DIY tasks.
Step 1: Identify your hanging location.
First, decide where you want to hang your item. Find the height where the mounting hardware will go. This is where you’ll search for studs on the wall.
Remove any wall photos or metal objects nearby. They could interfere with your magnetic stud finder. Set them aside for now.
Step 2: Make sure your stud finder is powered up.
Make sure that your stud finder’s batteries are fresh and functioning, as weak batteries can greatly distort readings. Also, check to make sure the flat side of the stud finder, where you’ll see the contacts and usually some felt to protect the wall from scratches, is clean of debris and dust.
Step 3: Locate the stud.
Studs are usually 16 inches apart at their centerpoints. Sometimes, they are 24 inches apart in old homes. So, you’ll be looking for a stud within a 2-foot span.
Hold your stud finder flat against the wall, about 1 foot to the left of where you ideally want to drill.
Turn it on. Usually, this is done with buttons mounted on the sides where you grip the tool. Now press the button to calibrate the stud finder; when the tool stops flashing or beeping, then it’s ready to go. Check your manual for exactly how your stud finder is calibrated, as it varies.
Step 4: Move the stud finder.
Slowly slide the stud finder to the right, horizontally, while keeping the unit flat on the wall.
Step 5: Mark the spot where there is a stud.
When the stud finder alerts you to a stud—via a beep or flashing light—move the finder backwards and forwards over the last few inches you covered. Find the exact spot that triggers the alert. That is the edge of the stud.
Step 6: Find dead center.
Mark the correct spot with your pencil. If you’re using a center-finding stud finder, it will show you the stud edges. Mark each edge so you know where to drill or hammer.
If you don’t have a center-finding stud finder, measure 1.5 inches to the right from the marked spot. This will find the other stud edge. Use the stud finder again to confirm the stud’s edges. Then, mark the middle spot between the edges for dead center.
Step 7: Double-check your work.
Don’t stop here. Keep looking for more studs 16 to 24 inches away from your first mark. Follow steps 3 through 6.
Even if your tool says it found a stud, it might be wrong. This could happen if there’s metal piping or flashing in the wall. Make sure by finding studs on both sides of where you plan to hang things.
Mark their spots and measure. If they’re 16 or 24 inches apart, you’ve found your center stud. Now, you can hammer or drill as needed. Be careful and precise or we’ll have to do a drywall patching article next.
If you want to do it yourself, you can find wall studs without a stud finder. These methods are not perfect but can help if you don’t have a stud finder.
